Blog posting #4. Wednesday, Jan. 3rd. Last evening’s heavy rain, as the temperature dipped in the early morning hours, turned into icy snow. The pines had ice crystals that surrounded each needle. From a distance it gave the forest a dusty gray color. I rushed out, without breakfast and began photographing. Before the trip Leping has suggested that I bring mini cramp-on's, that attach to the bottom of your shoes like compact tire chains. This was the most helpful advice possible. I was able to walk the icy slippery steps with confidence and used John Chan’s 6x17 camera. A big hike was being planned. At 10:45 I was advised to quickly get some food, as we were going to be gone for a long hike.

Because the restaurant was closed until 12:00, I was taken to a small employee housing area. I entered a small cold room with concrete walls. There was a cook preparing Leping and myself a bowl of noodles in a hot spicy broth. He prepared an omelet made with bamboo shots and green onions. As I ate I noticed the shape of a duck head hanging from the wall. Soon I realized that it was an entire duck, minus the feathers. It was being salted, to preserve it. I was told that it would last for up to two years.

We gathered in the square and waited for porters. I hated the idea of my gear being carried by someone else, but was told that it for this hike, it was needed. The porters height ranges from 5’3” - 5’ 6” and their weights range from 110 to 125 pounds. Astoundingly, the rule is that they can’t carry more than 110 pounds! They are so strong, obviously. And when you see them running down the steepest stairs, you realize that they have the feet and coordination of NFL cornerbacks.

We hiked to a familiar location called “Gazing at the Sea,” and made more images. The fog had lifted and the peaks were once again spectacular. We proceeded down the trail, and I began to see why porters were needed. The stairs got steeper, and the trail became much more interesting. We had special permission to hike in a restricted area, and the locked gate was made from bamboo. I was told, as we headed into a dark tunnel, that it looks like an old Chinese prison.

If you have ever hiked Moro Rock, in Kings Canyon National park, you might have an idea of what the trail became. There were giant slabs of granite, hundreds of feet high, laying against larger slabs of granite. This was like hiking in a slot canyon in the southwest. At times the gap was no more that two feet. We followed the trail down to the bottom of the gorge, about 1000 feet below. The steps had small areas for observation that we used as vantage points for making images. All the while ––light, fog and wind were revealing, then obscuring the peaks. I shot 10 rolls of film. At one point, we (5 photographers) were just firing away––trying to keep up with these spectacular conditions, and I realized that I have not had the good fortune of simultaneous, fog, light and geography like this before.

Steps

The hike back up the mountain was exceptionally strenuous. In places the steps were so steep, that the climb seemed utterly ridicules. Some stretches had the steepest stairs I have ever seen in my life. I found that if I looked up the steps, to see how far I need to go, I would get woozy, so I always looked at my feet. Everything is solidly built, and the steepest runs had banisters. I never felt that the conditions were unsafe, (for an adult) and every time I reached oxygen debt, there was a “pullout area” to recover. While climbing, were stopping to photograph. My last exposures were 3 minutes in length, and only darkness stopped us. We gathered at the top of the mountain, and with flashlights and hiked to a restaurant for dinner.

Constructed in Sweden, and taken apart piece-by-piece, it was carried by porters and reconstructed at the top of the mountain. We feasted, as we were cold tired and hungry. As we ate it began to snow. We hiked back to our quarters in the darkness, crunching in the snow, and happy as any photographer can be.